Orisson to Roncesvalles

The pilgrim mass held after dinner tonight is the perfect way to celebrate having survived the bone-crunching, knee-searing, muscle- wrenching day that the guidebooks promised the trip from Orisson to Roncesvalles would be. It was all of that and more.

We started the day in fog…mountain clouds actually, and so it was damp and cool walking all day; no rain, and sun for the last mile or so. In other words, perfect treking conditions. I walked with people from all over the world, most of them politely passing me after a while…I am one of the slower walkers and feeling all of my 68 years today. Meanwhile, healthy svelt French hiking couples sprited by me, “Buen Camino” they all say as they quickly become invisible in the fog ahead. I walked, rested, walked, rested, but kept on somehow, my knees especially protesting this second day of continuous torture.

But the best part is the cows..big beefy Blonde Pyrinees cattle. Pure buttercream in color, large, and beautiful. There are also small herds of sheep, burros, and georgeous work horses with hoofs bigger than my head. And hogs colored a lovely grey brown with large spots, looking like they popped right out of a coloring book. These all along the pasture lands, in the woods, along the roads, and atop the hills within view..the best part being their clanging heavy copper bells jingle-janging as they walk along. Otherwise, in this fog, one might think you were alone hiking through the beech forests and meadows.

But the wildlife show ended about the time the road got steep and slippery, covered with sharp rocks, the trails can be treacherous and one needs to watch each downhill step very carefully. It went on like that for miles. Whew, is all I can say.

I finally reached the monastery about 4 pm, and lucky for my knees which were like jelly. I got checked into a 4- bed room where I will sleep tonight with three chaps from England. I have learned a lot about English cheddar tonight! And no, neither has a boat, and yes, I did ask (can’t hurt after all).

In the evening I dined with a fellow from california and a woman from France. The neat thing about these accommodations is you get no choice of sleeping or eating arrangements, so you are never alone and always meeting someone new.

Tomorrow I have an “easier” day since the trail will be mostly flat and it is a “short “ day, only 11.5 miles. They all say I can do it. We will see if they are right. But the hardest part of the trek is at the beginning which is behind me now, and i sure hope they are right. Below are a couple of pics to fill in the details, including the main course for tonight’s dinner. (When I chose the fish, I hadn’t expected the whole fish, reminding me I am not in Kansas any more), and a photo of our group dinner at Orisson last night…for those of you who had worried about me being “alone” on the Camino.

St Jean Pied de Port to Refuge Orisson

“Rain, and plenty of it” is the last thing I recall them saying at breakfast today, a nice little sit-down with new friends from Denmark and Finland. After we had our fill of fresh croissants and home made yogurt we headed out, back down the ancient stone trail that led me here from the market yesterday, over the river, through the arched stone wall reminiscent of the entrance to Jerusalem, and off straight up the Cize Pass to Orisson.

Somehow I feel strangely at home. I had a great rest last night, sleeping through both time zones–my body time and french time– which had me wide-eyed in the middle of the night, so I packed my bag and went back to sleep until the nice french owner awakened me at 7 AM.

None of today went as I imagined. Of course, that is the way a trek like this should be. After heading out I found myself walking alone, left behind by the youthful and the sprinters. Then along came a younger woman huffing and puffing up the trail, and we quickly became friends. Giane is from Brazil, and we compared notes about our work, lives and politics, all the while forgetting the pain of the steep uphill trek, and stopping always to see the spectacular views…so vast, the mountains so green and high, so sharply incised by eons of erosion. Below, tucked here and there way off in the distance, a remote village or a sole sheepherders house. It had me dreaming of living alone on a mountaintop…then reality hit when Giane spotted an ominous dark cloud headed straight for us. Here is the rain they predicted earlier. It had been cloudy, cool, and breezy to this point…perfect walking conditions. We watched the rain funnel down on a far off village and we stepped up our pace. Up one more steep hill and we felt a sprinkle or two, then down a small hill and there was today’s prize…the Refuge de Orisson, our destination for the day. Just as we passed into the doorway of the restaurant it began to pour. How is that for good luck!

Here is a sample of the view, but really, no picture can do it justice. You just had to be there.

My First Big Day

I didn’t get far today….only 3,890 miles or so, and after 3 flights, three buses, a taxi and a mile walk uphill to my little hotel here in St Jean Pied de Port it feels as if I had walked most of it! It is lovely here and I am headed into town for a little French wine and some dinner. Then off to a very nice long sleep. Everyone today has been helpful and pleasant, and most speak better English than I do. Here is the view from my private little balcony….

Jac’s Next Big Adventure

We must go slowly, there isn’t much time…

Pre trip…getting us all together…

You’ve landed on the place to follow my big adventure: walk the Camino Frances from St. Jean Pied de Port, France, to Santiago, Spain.

I have always had big ideas (some call these grandiose) and fortunately for me, big feet! I will attempt to update you a couple of times weekly. So check in when you have time. It is an honor having you along!